The Graduated Bob: Guide

Haircut guide

Preparation

Before starting your cut:

• complete your client and hair analysis;
• with your client, decide how long the cut should be; and
• make sure your client is wearing a protective gown and sitting comfortably.

A curved graduation is split into three areas:

• back
• side
• front

Back area

Section the hair off in the centre back nape area.

The first section is the most important. It forms the guide for the rest of the shape.

Cut the first section between the inside of the fingers. This enables you to move your hand to the correct angle to cut the hair with the right amount of graduation.

Position the client's head slightly forward. This will also help you to move your hands into the right position.

Divide your sections into a fan-like pattern, spreading out from the centre section.

You guidelines is constantly moving but remains parallel to the nape of the neck.

When both sides are completed, check the shape for balance.

Section off the area above the nape in exactly the same way you made your first sections in the centre back nape area.

Using the nape area as a guide, take a centre section and angle your hand away from the head.

Keep your angles acute to achieve strong graduation.

Check the balance of the cut technically as well as visually.

Work the back area up to the rear of the crown and to the back of the ears.

Side area

Take a guideline from the last section you made behind the ear.

Take a diagonal section, angling your fingers down towards the front of the jawline.

Stand behind the section you are cutting. This will allow you to part the hair towards the back section.

Take your sections diagonally until you reach a horizontal line or the natural parting.

Keep the hair wet throughout the cutting process. This ensures maximum elasticity.

You should keep maximum tension all the way through the cut. Use relaxed tension only if the client has a double crown or the hair is naturally wavy.

The crown area is cut differently from the sides. The sides free-fall to the shape of the crown, which allows for the elevation of graduation.

Finishing

Before completing the cut, there are three more elements to complete:

• Corner of weight around the top of the head

Use the points of your scissors to round out and soften this area. This will prevent any hair from falling over the graduation.

• Fringe area

It is not always easy to cut a fringe. Depending on your client's requirements, work the hair up to either the side parting or the natural parting.

• Cleaning up outside lines

This strenghens the shape of the cut and gives a stronger look. You can choose whether to add this to the finish of your cut.

Blow-drying

• Decide which styling products you want to use.
• For best results, use a Denman 4 styling brush.
• The hair in the nape area should be dried flat to the head. You can do this by wrapping the hair against the head.
• Lift and give volume to the hair above the occipital to show the graduation.
• Only a gentle bend on the ends is necessary. Excessing bending on the neds will make the shape of the cut too round.