Scissors Over Comb: Step-by-Step Guide

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Our model has a square face shape with a very strong front hairline.

He has flat even growth hairlines.

We are creating a strong, short haircut so it is important that we check for irregular hairlines and unbalanced features.

Whatever cut you are creating, when cutting men's hair there are a number of features you should bear in mind.

Neckline

Men's necklines - or napelines - are usually less well defined than women's and need to be given an outline.

How you cut the neckline will depend on the look you are going for. A minimum of cutting will achieve a soft, natural look. The deeper you cut into the neckline, the harsher and sharper the look will become.

You can give the neckline various shapes - v-shaped, round, square, tapered, etc - by using razors, clippers or the points of your scissors to create the outline.

Fringe

Shaping the fringe area is a very important part of your hair cut. The wrong fringe can make or ruin your hairshape.

First, it is important to establish your client’s hairline pattern at the front. In many men, the hairline recedes to some extent from baldness.

You should avoid making the fringe area too heavy but never take out too much weight either. This can make the hair look as if it is thinning.

Always try to strike a balance between all the elements of your haircuts.

Side burns

Side burns are men’s side hairlines. They can be cut into various different shapes and lengths. But it is important that they fit with the rest of your hairstyle.

The shape and length of side burns change with fashion. For example, side burns were:

  • long in the 1920s, 30s and 40s;
  • clean and short in the 50s;
  • long, thin and shaped in the 60s and 70s; and
  • Gothic, angular and coloured in the 80s.

Since the 1990s, clean-cut looks have been more fashionable. And older men always tend to go for classic, short-cut side burns.

Ears

Many people’s ears are not evenly balanced. They can be very large, very small or even different sizes. And some stick out at an angle from the head.

You need to watch for all these characteristics when you are cutting shorter hairstyles.

You also need to know if your client wears glasses or a hearing aid. Both these will affect the finished look of your cut, particularly if you are aiming for a short, sharp look.

Partings

Partings can be used to produce different effects in hairstyles. For example, a central parting can divide the hair evenly and help to make a heavy head or thick hair appear more balanced. Side partings can be used to draw the eye away from prominent features such as a large nose or uneven ears.

Fashion can also affect the way you use partings.

Some natural partings can be very well defined and it is often necessary to work with them rather than imposing new partings.

During your client consultation, before you start cutting, you should establish the pattern and strength of your client’s natural parting. This may determine the finished look you are able to achieve.

 

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