This design is often also known as a French roll. It is a classic look that goes back to the 1940s, although the pleat then had a softer movement than it tends to have today.
The French pleat is a vertical roll of hair, usually worn at the back of the head. It is most suitable for long hair but can be achieved with mid-length hair. It is also a way of dressing long hair to make it appear shorter.
When you are creating this look, it is important to prepare the hair properly. You can do this by first setting and then gently back-brushing the hair.
As you set the hair, use large rollers on the top of the head and small ones at the nape. This will help you achieve softer movement at the top and tighter curls at the bottom.
You do not always need to back-brush the hair. The shorter it is, the more likely it is to need back-brushing. You should back-brush only the sections of hair that you are using to make the pleat. This creates volume and gives the pleat more definition.
Make sure that your client’s head is upright throughout the session so that the pleat does not come loose.
Brush and smooth the hair into position. Whether you fix the hair to the right or the left depends on what your client wants and which is easiest for you.