Perm and neutralise hair: Step 13 - Coping with perming and neutralising problems

Perming problems
The chart below identifies the problems that might occur with perms and what action you should take.

Problem:Perm slow to take
Reason: Cold salon temperature; wrong selection of perm Use added heat � dryer/climazone; re-damp with lotion; lotion evaporated; insufficient lotion applied
Action: Use added heat � dryer/climazone; re-damp with stronger lotion; re-damp with same lotion

Problem: Perm processing too quickly
Reason: Hair too porous, allowing lotion to enter hair shaft too quickly; hair too dry when lotion applied; very hot salon
Action: Remove any extra heat; remove cap if used; rinse hair

Problem: Hair breakage
Reason: Too much tension; lotion too strong for hair type; over processing
Action: Use restructurant or deep penetrating conditioner

Problem: Rubber banding marks
Reason: Wound too tight
Action: Use restructurant

Problem: Hairline and scalp irritation
Reason: Cuts, abrasions on scalp; cap and wool left around hairline; too much lotion applied
Action: Rinse immediately using cool water

Problem: Fish hooks
Reason: Hair ends buckled or bent during winding
Action: Remove by cutting

Problem: Frizziness
Reason: Over processing; lotion too strong; rods too small
Action: Cut if possible; use restructurant or deep penetrating conditioner

Problem: Uneven curl formation
Reason: Lotion applied unevenly; rod tension uneven
Action: Re-perm if hair is in good condition

Problem: Too tight curl
Reason: Over processed; rod size too small
Action: Deep condition; assess hair condition for relaxing

Neutralising problems
The chart below identifies the problems that may arise with neutralising and what action you should take.

Problem: Frizziness
Reason: Over processing
Action: Cut if possible; use restructurant or deep penetrating conditioner

Problem: Uneven curl formation
Reason: Neutraliser applied unevenly
Action: Use restructurant or deep penetrating conditioner; re-perm if hair in good formation condition

Your questions answered
How long do I have to complete my perm on assessment?
When post-damping (applying the perm lotion after winding the rods), you have 45 minutes to complete the winding only. If pre-damping, your wind should be completed in 35 minutes to deem you commercially competent.

Will I be asked questions on what the chemicals do to the hair when I’m perming?
Yes, you need to fully understand what the perm lotion and neutraliser do to the hair when you are perming to be competent in this perming unit.

Will perm winding get easier?
Yes, it is like any new skill, it gets easier with a lot of hard practice. Remember, practice makes perfect!

How many perms do I have to do on assessment?
You have to successfully complete at least three full-head perms on assessment.

Perming and neutralising steps
1.Carry out consultation.
2.Gown up client
3.Apply perm lotion and allow to process. Check development
4.Rinse hair, using indicator test papers. Check development.
5.Apply neutraliser, wait, then remove rods gently.

content provided by Heinemann

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